From TradgirlWiki

[edit] A random sampling of wisdom

[edit] Brutus of Wyde on trad climbing for noobs

First:

Your first placement when starting a lead off the deck, all other things being equal, should be a multi-directional placement, able to resist loading in all directions in which it might reasonably be loaded.

Come to think of it, additionally, whenever the rope changes direction significantly, such as when starting and ending a traverse on lead, or when placing multiple pieces in line along a horizontal traverse where the pieces must protect both the leader and the follower (direction of loading can change up to 90 degrees depending on whether the leader or second falls) these loading directions must be taken into account and your placements constructed accordingly.

Second:

If that first piece on an upward lead is solidly multi-directional, able to resist outward and upward forces as well as downward, that piece can serve to protect subsequent pieces from outward and upward loading (which results in back-zippering.) If so protected, the subsequent pieces can often then be placed to resist only downward loading from the leader fall, given no unusual changes in rope direction thereafter.

Third:

No particular clean climbing piece is inherently multi-directional. Even well-placed pitons and bolts have stronger and weaker axes, ranging from shear to pullout. Cams have the ability to sometimes rotate and hold, however trusting your life to this generalization rather than to construct each placement based on the rock, the equipment available to you, and the equipment you may need later in the pitch, is foolhardy. Keyhole nut placements, though rare in many kinds of rock, can be very resistant to multi-directional loading. Every placement is unique. That said, when possible a properly constructed placement incorporating opposition is an extremely valuable and powerful tool in resisting multi-directional loading. Sometimes this kind of placement is the only thing that will work safely, be it constructed of cams, hexes, nuts or a combination.

Fourth:

Given equally spaced pieces and all other factors being equal, protection placed at the start of a pitch will see far higher forces if they catch a fall than pieces placed later in a pitch.

Fifth:

When the opportunity presents itself, it is a good idea to double up pieces before obvious cruxes, before obvious runouts, where the pro is marginal, and in other situations where either the likelyhood of a fall is high or where the consequences of falling are more serious. It may also make sense to double up on pro after long runouts, where the failure of a single piece may result in extreme consequences. If concerned about "rationing" pieces, take into account that 1) if you fall and die, you won't need the rest of the rack anyways; 2) if you're looking at a runout ahead, the runout itself will ration your pieces; and 3) if you've just finished a runout, you have some extras that you would have otherwise placed. That said, always maintain an awareness of what is on your rack, what you may need for the rest of the pitch (including the belay anchors) and look for the opportunity to place pieces accordingly.

Sixth:

Always be aware of the potential consequences of a fall. Many many times in Trad climbing, whether just stepping off of a spacious ledge onto a crux, seconding a traverse with the protection a long ways away, finding yourself in difficulty with poor to non-existant protection, or running it out on easy ground, you are, in effect, soloing. Learn to recognize these situations and climb accordingly.

Seventh:

Trad is a different beast than sport. The ability to place effective protection, sometimes when in strenuous, scary, or otherwise stressful situations, is a completely different skill than the ability to climb hard technical moves, sometimes when in strenuous, scary, or otherwise stressful situations. Competent, safe traditional climbing requires a high degree of skill in both of these areas. Never challenge yourself in both areas at once. And be aware that poor routefinding can quickly put you over your head in both.

Eighth:

Routefinding is more than following dotted lines in a guidebook. It is a multifaceted skill ranging from being able to "read" the rock in terms of protection, rest stances, hard moves, probable ratings, and downclimbing opportunities; to being able to envision the entire route including the descent, from a distance, and translate that into competent decisions when presented with the limited, extremely foreshortened view when actually climbing the route.

Ninth:

Trad falls, especially when learning the ropes and climbing easier routes, are particularly dangerous, due to the nature of the terrain typically found on easier routes. Even good protection is no guarantee of injury-free falls with ledges and footholds to flip you upside-down or sprain or break an ankle on low-angle terrain. (Nearly every year, someone breaks an ankle on Nutcracker in Yosemite.) Traversing, pendulum falls for both the leader and the second are more common on trad terrain, develop as much momentum as vertical falls, and expose vital organs to impact. Add to all of this, inexperience at placing gear, and the rule "the leader must not fall" is a good policy to live by, particularly in the first year or two.

hth,

Brutus of Wyde Old Climbers' Home Oakland, California